Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Tapping threads

Now that the block is clean from oily residues and dust, it's time to start tapping threads. It's a really easy procedure but here's a few practical tips anyway.

The threads for cylinder head bolts look terrible, the first thing that comes to mind is whether these will ever be usable again:






The correct tap is a 7/16" UNC. Tapping requires a lubricant, otherwise you'll need to use too much force and you won't know whether you're tapping the rust away or the threads themselves! So start with a few drops of oil from an oil can, straight into the threads. The tap should start at the threads with minimal force using fingers and light pressure. After the tap starts, no pressure is required at all. I do half a revolution in and then a quarter revolution back and so on and so on until I feel like the flutes on the tap start filling with residue (maybe two to three full revolutions, in this case). Then it's time to take the tap out and flush it in thinner. I keep the thinner, oil can and a shop rag on the lifter valley, there's also a flashlight to check out the progress on the threads. The pliers are for tightening the tap in it's holder every now and then.


Then just start over with the oil can and repeat the procedure until the threads are clean. For my block, it took maybe three iterations for each thread. The procedure works:





Now that more or less virgin metal is exposed, it's again time to give a light coat of motor oil to protect from rust. I do this by giving a 7/16" bolt a few drops of oil into the threads and then doing it in. It needs to go using finger force, otherwise the job is not done and you need to take the tap back to the threads again.


A small block chevy has 17 bolts for each cylinder head so it took me about three hours to do both banks.

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